Þjórsárdalur: A Journey Off the Beaten Path
Despite its many treasures, Þjórsárdalur remains off the radar for most travelers—making it a perfect detour for those seeking authenticity and solitude.
From Ashes of the Past: The Saga of Stöng and Þjóðveldisbærinn
Your journey into the heart of Þjórsárdalur begins with a powerful reminder of Iceland’s volatile natural history. Deep in the valley lies Stöng, the ruins of a real Viking-age farmstead that was buried under ash from Mount Hekla’s eruption in 1104. These archaeological remains offer a raw and haunting connection to the people who once lived in the shadow of the volcano.
To bring this story to life, a full-scale replica known as Þjóðveldisbærinn (the Commonwealth Farm) was constructed a few kilometers away. Built using traditional methods and materials, this turf-roofed longhouse recreates what Stöng may have looked like before the eruption. Inside, visitors can experience the layout and atmosphere of a chieftain’s home from the 11th century—including the central hearth, timber interiors, and living spaces.
Next to the Commonwealth farm, you’ll also find a charming stave church, gifted by Norway to commemorate the 1000-year anniversary of Christianity in Iceland. Together, these sites offer both the authenticity of ancient ruins and the immersive storytelling of careful reconstruction.
Into the Green Heart: The Magic of Gjáin
A short trail from Stöng leads to one of Iceland’s most enchanting spots: Gjáin. This hidden gorge feels like something out of folklore, where waterfalls tumble into crystal-clear pools, moss carpets the volcanic rock, and delicate wildflowers bloom between basalt columns. It’s a place where silence speaks volumes—perfect for photographers, romantic wanderers, or anyone craving a peaceful connection with nature.
In summer, Gjáin is especially magical, its vibrant greenery a striking contrast to the dark lava fields and pale pumice that surround it. Despite its beauty, this area remains relatively quiet—ideal for those seeking serenity away from Iceland’s more tourist-heavy destinations.
The Power of Water: Háifoss and Hjálparfoss
The raw energy of Þjórsárdalur is nowhere more evident than at its waterfalls. To the east lies Háifoss, Iceland’s third-highest waterfall, plunging 122 meters into a dramatic canyon formed by the Fossá River. Reaching it requires a short but rewarding hike or a scenic drive on gravel roads. The view from above, with the falls slicing through basalt cliffs, is one of South Iceland’s most breathtaking vistas.
Just a short drive away, Hjálparfoss offers a very different kind of beauty. Set where two rivers meet, this wide, twin waterfall flows into a serene basin, framed by lava formations that resemble ancient sculptures. Historically, Hjálparfoss served as a welcome resting point for travelers and livestock moving through the highlands—hence the name, which means “Help Falls.”
Forests, Lava, and Living Landscape
One of the valley’s most surprising features is the presence of Þjórsárdalsskógur, a growing forest of birch, pine, and spruce nestled between volcanoes and rivers. Though Iceland is not known for its woods, this green oasis invites visitors to wander along soft forest paths, rest in shaded glens, or picnic beside quiet streams.
The surrounding landscape, however, never lets you forget its volcanic origins. The valley floor is blanketed in pumice from repeated eruptions, and towering above it all is Búrfell, a table mountain that now houses one of Iceland’s largest hydroelectric power stations. The juxtaposition of ancient geology and modern innovation gives the area a unique, almost mythic energy—where past and present exist side by side.
Scenic Hiking Trails
Þjórsárdalur’s hiking trails offer something for every hiker—whether you’re looking for a peaceful stroll into a secret canyon or a full-day adventure visiting Iceland’s dramatic waterfalls.
Here are a few standout hikes in Þjórsárdalur that enrich your visit with scenic views and rewarding exploration:
🚶♀️Gjáin Gorge Trail (Easy, ~2 km RT)
- Route: From Þjóðveldisbærinn (Stöng) to the hidden oasis of Gjáin and back (~2 km total).
- Highlights: Pass through mossy basalt, lava caves, and serene ponds. Explore waterfalls like Gjárfoss up-close—or linger in the lush canyon.
- Duration & Difficulty: About 30 min–1 hour round-trip; rocky paths, some stairs—hiking boots recommended.
🚶♀️Stöng–Háifoss Waterfall Trail (Moderate, ~10 km RT)
- Route: A scenic 10 km hike following Fossá River from the reconstructed Viking farm at Stöng to the dramatic 122 m Háifoss.
- Highlights: Towering waterfall set in a rugged canyon, views of its twin Granni, and riverside ambiance.
- Duration & Difficulty: Full‑day hike (5–6 hrs RT); stony terrain, moderate elevation changes—solid footwear essential.
🚶♀️ Þjórsárdalur Valley Loop (Moderate, ~8.5 km)
- Route: According to user-tracked trails on Wikiloc (~8.5 km/5.3 mi RT), this moderate loop wanders through the valley, connecting Stöng, Gjáin, and viewpoints in the forest and lava area.
- Highlights: Offers a broader taste of the valley’s landscapes—riverbanks, pumice fields, forest edges—with varied elevation (~120 m gain).
- Duration & Difficulty: About 3 hour round- trip; Encompasses valley, forest, and lava terrain. Hiking boots recommended.
Sturdy boots are crucial, especially on rocky paths and near waterfalls. Most trails are fully accessible from late May to early October—best conditions are from June to September. Paths in Gjáin and along the Stöng–Háifoss route are generally well-marked, but bring a map or use GPS if venturing farther into the valley.
Getting There:
Þjórsárdalur is easily accessible by car via Route 32, branching off from Route 30 near the village of Flúðir. The drive from Reykjavík takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes. The roads leading to Háifoss and Gjáin are gravel and quite rough, so a sturdy SUV or other high-clearance vehicle is recommended over a regular passenger car. This will help avoid damage, make the drive safer, and ensure a smoother experience.
Where to Stay:
There are various accommodation options in and around Þjórsárdalur to suit every kind of traveler. Whether you're looking for comfort, simplicity, or a closer connection to nature, you'll find something that fits. The area offers hotels, guesthouses, cozy cabins, and well-equipped campsites—perfect for everything from family road trips to romantic getaways or solo adventures under the stars. For accommodation information please visit: https://www.south.is/en/food-accommodation/accommodation or https://www.south.is/en/map#accommodation to see the accommodation options on a map.
Final Thought:
Þjórsárdalur is not a place to rush through. It rewards curiosity, patience, and a willingness to wander a little farther than the main road. Whether you're following the footsteps of Viking farmers, chasing waterfalls through basalt canyons, or simply breathing the silence beneath towering birch trees, this valley offers a deeply personal and unforgettable slice of Iceland—one that still feels like a secret.